… is a very good instrument! It came to me in kind of a mess. It appeared that the person who recently overhauled the instrument (not Mr. Weber, I checked) kind of hurried through the repadding, and didn’t do a very good job making sure all of the cork pads sealed well. A lot of them weren’t laying flat on the tone hole, and so they weren’t sealing very well. I spent 4 hours this afternoon going through every single cork pad on the top joint, and resurfacing each pad just as Mr. Weber showed me and how Moennig had shown him;
- Take a graphite pencil and a piece of cigarette paper. Color a big dark circle on the cigarette paper.
- Put the dark circle under the pad with the graphite facing the cork. Close the key a couple of times, even holding it lightly while tugging the cigarette paper away.
- Take off the entire key. Look at the pad to see which part of the pad is hitting first (it should be marked with darker graphite). If part of the pad is not closing all of the way, there will be no graphite mark there.
- Using fine sand paper or pumice, sand off the dark graphite. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have a fine graphite circle all the way around on the pad showing that the entire pad is closing all of the way on the tone hole.
The other way a lot of repairmen like to repad a key is with shellac. They “float” the cork in by heating up the shellac, putting in the cork pad, and while the shellac is still hot and soft, they can adjust the cork to the position that seems to sit pretty well across the tonehole. Then they go in and often bend the key just a little bit to get the last remaining bit to cover. I hate the idea of bending a key, but bending is a lot faster than taking off a key, sanding, putting back on, testing, taking back off, sanding again, putting back on, testing, etc. To my knowledge, Loree still does the ole’ graphite and sandpaper technique.
So now I have the topjoint of the EH sealing almost perfectly. The one problem is as I mentioned, the repairman was in a hurry and wasn’t paying attention to what he was doing, so he put a piece of buffer sheet cork on the bottom part of the half key, which is normal. But the problem is that he put it not realizing that the edge is right on an imperfection in the cork, where there’s a natural “swiss cheese-like” hole, so it leaks. I’m going to have to get that replaced, and then the bottom joint has 3 skin pads which aren’t doing the horn any favors. Finally, the low B key is buckling, so I’ll need to take a good look at it.
But the BC horn plays at least (although I still have to push the half-hole down very hard) and I can get a good sense of the sound. It has a very warm, beautiful clean sound to it, and has a good register. It doesn’t have a left F, which would be another $400 or so to get added on. I have worked out a deal with Hannah to rent the EH for a month from her, and by then I should have the other KK EH horn back from the shop so that I can compare the two horns side by side. If I decide to keep the BC, she’ll count the rental fee toward the purchase. Meanwhile, anyone looking for an older special Loree EH?
As for Hannah, I can officially say that she has been nothing but a delight to deal with. Originally, I was interested in this BP English Horn back in July, but I couldn’t get back to the States in time to try it, and I lost out on the opportunity to buy it. I didn’t give her a second thought, but obviously she did. She sent me an email last week about this BC English Horn (because she knew I was looking for a C series or a B series EH at the time) and offered me to test it out first. She’s been more than generous, and I will certainly deal with her again if need be.